Shrinkage – What’s wrong with percentages? Part 3

Shrinkage – What’s wrong with percentages? Part 3

I think I have ranted enough about  why we need shrinkage rates (and not percentages)  now it’s time to discuss how to apply them.  Firstly, lets address why we need to know how much our felt will shrink.  You always need to calculate this if you NEED a fairly accurate result.  I say fairly as it is almost impossible to replicate an exact size of felt, but shrinkage rates are the most accurate method.  For example:  you need a shrinkage rate if you wanted to make anything that fits over, around, through, between or on an item.  The item may be: hats, slippers, bags, pockets, pouches, clothes, even wraps and scarves.  There’s nothing worse than a wrap of scarf that just isn’t long enough or wide enough or is so big you drown in it.

To apply your shrinkage rate you simply multiply your finished size by your shrinkage rate.

For example:
I want a bag to be 45cm wide and 60cm deep.  My shrinkage rate is 1.7 (anything under this is probably not felted properly and I will address this in another post later.)  The calculation looks like this:

  1. 45cm x 1.7 =  76.5cm
  2. 60cm x 1.7 =  102cm

My template ends up being 76.5cm wide and 102cms deep.  When I am fulling my bag I will keep fulling until it is 45cm wide and 60cm deep.  It will then be fulled.

I can hear some saying BUT my sample is not square!  I will discuss this next post.

I will attach a PDf version of these instructions on the last post so you can print them out.

Nuno Felt with Alison Gomes by Eleanor Dennis

There was a palpable air of excitement as eleven fortunate felters gathered for Alison’s workshop on Nuno felting.   We started with a classroom session and to break the ice, we all introduced ourselves and explained why we loved felting.  It was very obvious from everyone’s comments that Alison’s work is held in very high regard and that everyone was very excited to be in the class to learn from her experience.  No pressure of course for Alison!!

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Alison explained that she has been felting for five years and loves it.  She gets the ‘DT’s’ if she doesn’t felt most days.  Alison has commandeered the family kitchen table for felting, Monday to Thursday and grudgingly relinquishes it to the family for weekendsJ  Her joy and love of felting is obvious.  Alison loves experimenting and exploring with felt and out of that processes comes some ‘happy successes.’  Alison explained it as  ‘the joy of felting.’

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Alison demonstrated the four basic techniques of nuno felting:

1)     Wool base with fabric on top

2)     Fabric base with wool on top

3)     Laminating wool between two or more layers of fabric

4)     Making nuno pre-felts to use as patterns on wool rovings, bats or fabric bases.

She also explained the types of fabric that work well in nuno felting and passed around examples of her work that illustrated the various techniques with various types of fabric incorporated in the finished article.  We were able to see and feel the textures that can be achieved.  Fabrics that work well include the open weave silks – chiffon, organza, georgette; devore and silk velvet; rayon; open weave cotton scrim fabrics but use in a double layer; yoryu silk will felt but shrinks in the direction of the longitudinal weave (weavers – is that warp or weft?).  Tightly woven silks will felt with difficulty or not at all.  Synthetic fabrics will not felt, especially synthetic velvet.

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After a quick refresher on laying out wool and the old chestnut ‘shrinkage’ it was down to work!  Some of us worked on samples and some started their major piece.  After lunch we had a quick session on the use of colour with the instructions to be brave and bold and experiment.  To quote Alison, ‘Wool, like paint can be colour mixed to great effect.’

Then it was back to work to finish items already started and to commence work on a scarf or other item.

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Take home lessons for nuno felting and felting generally:

the finer you lay your wool the more it shrinks; use warm water; if you add soap to your water bottle it should be cloudy NOT foamy; in winter you can bring your piece to room temperature in the microwave – don’t cook it though!; be gentle; use your hand to ‘dry felt’ fine wool pieces to keep them in place; use wisps of wool over fabric to help them adhere to fabric; BE GENTLE  when fulling; keep checking, stretching when fulling; lift your noodle when rolling to reduce/eliminate creases; don’t roll too tightly; when fulled rinse in tepid water, that gradually becomes colder as the soap washes out.  Lay flat to dry. When your piece is almost dry, iron it face down ir on the back, covered with a towel and on a steam setting. If you are using a felbi bat for motifs, you can line them with wool or use two pieces for more body. Always weight your wool and record it so that you know how much wool you need for the thickness you want.  Alison suggested  30-35 gms of wool for a fine wool scarf with two layers.  Handle rovings as little as possible.  Roll up rovings and store in open plastic bags under dry conditions or paper bags if it is humid.   Cedar wood oil is a good moth repellant.

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We look forward to the November Show n Tell to see the results of the day.

A huge thank you to Alison for the day.  It was a wonderful day of learning, sharing, fun and new friendships which is, as those of us who are newish to felting, have come to understand as a normal state of affairs!   I’m sure that I speak for other ‘newbies’ when I say that we are very thankfull for the generosity of the tutors and the other felters.

Rug Making with Liz Odd by Eleanor Dennis

Virginia, Pat, Beth, Sue H and I arrived eager to learn how to make a floor rug or in Pat’s case, a table-runner under the expert tutelage of Liz Odd.

Tables  were set and instructions were handed out by Liz. We had all arrived with an idea of what we wanted to do.  In my case, a simple striped floor mat similar in design to one of Nancy’s creations.  I wanted to learn the technique and not be side-tracked by more complex design or technique.  Liz soon put paid to that!  She showed us various samples of her work and designs from invitations to indigenous art exhibitions and urged us to think about design, colour and use of our pieces.  We could felt both sides with different designs if we wanted too.  As with all felting, Liz made us realize that we could let our imaginations run wild! This led me to change my design whilst keeping the technique simple and to play with shape and colour.  Beth and Virginia decided to felt with different designs the backs of their pieces too.

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Beth had returned to felting after a break of three years and she was flying along, using up materials from her shed. A lovely soft mauve hued bat with lots of brightly coloured pre-felted pieces, scatterings of wool and other embellishments on top and a totally different pattern and colour scheme on the bottom.

Virginia wanted to make a rug for her living area and she had her design and colours all planned. She started with a ‘Nancy’ bat, then a layer of cotton lawn, topped with a fine layer of wool laid in one direction, topped with a double layer lightweight Felbi bat.  She then laid a scroll like design on top with wool yarn.

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Pat was carefully cutting out her design to use on her table runner and Sue was being very social while she worked out what she wanted to do which turned out to be a stunning rug.

Pat’s table runner was laid on a ‘Nancy’ bat, topped with fabric and then wool and her pre-felt design.

Sue laid out her design on top of a ‘Nancy’ bat. Her rug covered two tables which when dry was easy to manoeuvre but once wet it took two people to lift and carry out to her car!

 As the day wore on the creativity ebbed and flowed and Liz monitored progress, providing useful tips and tricks and hands on assistance such as trimming edges, design advice, placing pieces and wetting down.

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Once we had laid out the design, it was time to dry roll our pieces and then check that the design was still in place and that there were no holes where the bat could come through. Once finished with that process it was time to wet down and finish the felting process, remembering to keep checking, getting rid of excess water and stretching.

The day went all too quickly and we all headed off with our efforts to finish at home.

Everyone had a great time. Lessons learned – positive and negative:

  • If using fabric between your wool layers,  wash it first to avoid issues with different shrinkage rates between wool and fabric, the effect of any water resistant chemical  applied to the fabric and dye running.  Liz suggests washing all fabric before use and making a note if it runs or has other problems.
  • In Virginia’s piece she commented that another layer of wool in a different direction between the bats would have resulted in more even felt and a thicker layer of wool on top would have been preferable.
  • Some of the bats were water resistant in patches and difficult to wet so we ended up with too much water and soap. The only solution is to mop up extra water and soap as it is very difficult to tell which parts of the bat will be resistant.
  • If you have a plastic table similar to the ones we use, use the table edge to get straight edges and rounded corners when cutting and trimming.
  • keep stretching the piece between rolling to get straight edges
  • and for new felters like me, use a tumble dryer to felt big pieces. Don’t over- do it.  If using a tumble dryer, less is better ie keep checking every five minutes for shrinkage and stretch edges to keep it straight.

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POST SCRIPT:  At the October Show and Tell, we brought along our pieces for Liz to critique.  Pat had used some stitching on her table runner which brought out the colour and texture of her table-runner.  Sue was not present so we weren’t able to see her stunning rug.  Beth decided that she was going to stitch hers too to bring out the colours and add texture. Virginia’s was finished and looked lovely and mine needs some more felting to harden the edges.

A huge thank you to Liz who not only provided great tutoring in class but followed up with each of us after class to offer advice and help.

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Shrinkage – What’s wrong with percentages? Part 2

Just to recap using percentages to calculate how much wool to lay is wrong.

For example:
Jane made a piece of felting that ended up 20cm by 20cm.  Soosie admired it and asked how much did it shrink by?  And like so many other people she said, “Oh about 30%”.

Soosie heads off to her studio to make a similar piece and thinks to herself (obviously its not me cos I would have said it aloud.  To my dogs.) “Mmmmm.    It ended up 20cm, shrank by 30% so 30% of 20 = about 7.  I have to lay 27cm of wool.”

Off she goes felting away. BUT when she is finished the piece is only 18cm x 18cm!?!?!  She made it exactly the same way Jane did – same wool, same layers, same decoration yet it ended up smaller.   WHY?

Because 30% of 27cm is 18cm.  Jane laid 30cm of wool to get 20cm of felt.  You can’t calculate something you don’t know the starting measurement of.  Soosie only knew the finished measurement.  Here in lies the big problem with using percentages.  How do we fix this?  Use shrinkage rates.  Once you have determined the shrinkage rate you can apply it to any finished size to calculate accurately your starting measurement.

And the only way to calculate shrinkage is by making a sample.

  1. Cut a piece of bubble wrap or foam or plastic (something durable) measuring EXACTLY 30cm x 30cm to maske a sample template.
  2. Using the template lay the wool EXACTLY the same way you intend to make the final piece.
  3. Felt the way you usually felt.
  4. Measure the finished piece of felt.  For example 20cm x 20cm.
  5. Calculate how much it shrank by:- Original measurement divided by finished measurement.
    30/20 = 1.5  this is your shrinkage rate.

How do I apply a shrinkage rate?  That’s for the next post.

I will attached a PDf version of these instructions next post so you can print them out.

Keep sampling!  Soosie 🙂